Taste Test: Oddfellows in Chester

Reporter:

Nick Harrison

Oddfellows, 20 Lower Bridge Street, Chester. Tel: 01244 345454.

Ambience - 8/10

Service - 9/10

Food quality - 9/10

Children welcome - Yes

Disabled access - Yes

 

It’s always busy but even with a wedding going on, the service and quality of food at Oddfellows was excellent.

You are spoilt for choice when heading to dine in Chester these days but the three times I’ve opted for Oddfellows, I’ve not been disappointed.

I wouldn’t give the ambience of our table top marks but the food could not be faulted - and let’s face it, that’s what we go for.

A pre-meal drink in a bar area that was buzzing at 6pm on a Saturday night was followed by a three course meal that was never overpowering.

A lot of diners prefer restaurants and pubs of the plate-filling variety. But there’s no needless sprigs of salad leaves or piles of peas crammed onto your crockery.

It’s nouvelle cuisine that leads nicely and comfortably from one course to another.

I opted for the treacle-cured salmon starter with shellfish aioli that I don’t think was worthy of a £7 asking price.

My partner’s goat’s cheese and caramelised red onion tarte looked the better choice.

The main course of lamb rump with spring greens, sticky lentils and mint pickle more than made up for the paltry starter, with the lamb pink and succulently sweet.

On the other side, the red mullet came with brown shrimp linguine, broccoli pollen and romensco and the sparkling clean plate at the end of the course said it all.

We’ve normally ‘deserted’ the table by the time the puddings arrive but the fruit gateau and apple panna cotta crumble were a perfect finish to a very good meal, where apart from a little haphazardness in serving the water, the service was top-class.

 

The bill

1 x treacle salmon £7

1 x Goat's cheese tarte £6

1 x Red Mulley £15.50

1 x lamb £15

1 x gateaux £7

1 x crumble £7

1 x New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc £28

1 x glass of Shiraz £5.50

Total bill: £91

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